<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"><channel><title>alper.nl</title><link>https://alper.nl/</link><description>Recent content on alper.nl</description><generator>Hugo -- 0.165.0</generator><language>en-US</language><lastBuildDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2026 13:09:40 +0200</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://alper.nl/feed.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>Iseji - Day 0 - Getting to Ise</title><link>https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/</link><pubDate>Sun, 30 Nov 2025 11:38:30 +0000</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I wanted to write how I got to Ise in the first place and why that was such a terrible experience.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I wanted to write how I got to Ise in the first place and why that was such a terrible experience.</p>
<p>After landing at Narita at around 11:00 JST, I fumble around and manage to buy myself a sandwich and a <a href="https://www.keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetudou/skyliner/us/skyliner/index.php"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Skyliner</a> ticket. So far everything seems to be fine.</p>
<p>Then getting into town at Tokyo Station, I quickly find out none of the ATMs will give me money. I try a bunch of them. I try all my cards credit and debit.</p>
<p>Throngs of people rush past me as I walk around forlorn frantically trying things and coming up with scenarios. Mostly I&rsquo;m just waiting for Germany to wake up. At the same time I continue to amass a stack of &ldquo;issuer declined&rdquo; notices from different banks and teller machines.</p>
<p>What is working:</p>
<ul>
<li>I took €150 out at BER airpport which I exchange for yen at random money exchange counters.</li>
<li>I get on some public WiFi outside Tokyo station and buy a Shinkansen ticket online with my credit card. Their website is bad and hard to use but not broken enough thankfully.</li>
</ul>
<p>What isn&rsquo;t working:</p>
<ul>
<li>I have a hard time paying for stuff with my credit card. It seems I changed the PIN and forgot to put the new one into my password manager.</li>
<li>I&rsquo;m out of practice using a credit card. In Berlin I usually tap my phone at the terminal. In Japan phone payments are not widely accepted.</li>
<li>I learn later that in Japan they don&rsquo;t like to give cash out against a credit card generally.</li>
</ul>
<p>The main choice now before me is whether to stay put here or get myself to my accomodation. My next five days of sleeping are already booked and I just bought a train ticket online. That means I still have most of the money I exchanged, but the part of Japan that I&rsquo;m going to is very very rural.</p>
<p>I figure that if need be, €150 can last me for a week or more if I only eat FamiChicki and other convenience store foods. So I hop on the Shinkansen passing through the gates with the QR-code of my digital ticket.</p>
<p>At Nagoya station I try some more machines. Support at the German bank says they&rsquo;ve reset a bunch of things. None of them work.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Station"
    width="1280"
    height="876"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/station_hu_74debc3c2f30edbf.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/station_hu_74debc3c2f30edbf.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/station.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/station.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>At this point I&rsquo;m tired and fully resigned. I buy a train ticket to <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/DoiUL8Q7NHeVCk4z8"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Iseshi</a> and stare out the window for two hours. After I arrive, I get word from Germany that there&rsquo;s been a payment system malfunction with my bank and that lots of people had issues with their cards.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Bath"
    width="1280"
    height="960"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bath_hu_81f9802b3827ac00.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bath_hu_81f9802b3827ac00.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bath.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bath.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>That also means the malfunction is over. I rush to the nearest ATM and take out a bunch of cash. I&rsquo;m super elated and with the money I just got I buy myself dinner twice, to celebrate.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Fish"
    width="1280"
    height="960"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/fish_hu_897b8c44eba452d6.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/fish_hu_897b8c44eba452d6.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/fish.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/fish.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Bottles"
    width="1280"
    height="950"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bottles_hu_abf3af24f83c6c3f.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bottles_hu_abf3af24f83c6c3f.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bottles.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-0-getting-to-ise/bottles.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I go back to the hotel and lie down on the tatami floor. Happy that it is over and that my real undertaking can start properly now. After six very stressful hours, I&rsquo;ve arrived.</p>
<p>Major lessons learned:</p>
<ul>
<li>Bring cash on holidays. If I had brought twice as much, I would not have stressed out that much about this.</li>
<li>Have more than one bank. This episode has made me regret closing my Dutch “real” bank account a lot.</li>
</ul>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Iseji - Day 1 - Tamura to Misedani</title><link>https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/</link><pubDate>Sun, 30 Nov 2025 13:16:25 +0000</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I get started late after jetlag keeps me up between 2-5am. Then when I finally catch sleep, it&amp;rsquo;s time to rise and leave. The Fitbit clocks me at 3h47m of sleep.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I get started late after jetlag keeps me up between 2-5am. Then when I finally catch sleep, it&rsquo;s time to rise and leave. The Fitbit clocks me at 3h47m of sleep.</p>
<p>I quickly walk over from the lovely <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/jPwVTpBdEucQciL5A"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Mizuhokan</a> to the Ise outer shrine. The site is beautiful. I learn that the empty lot next to the shrine is where they build the building anew every 20 years. A tradition, <em>shikinen sengu</em>, I had heard about before but didn&rsquo;t think it would be here. They started <a href="https://www.iseshima-kanko.jp/en/highlights/sengu_eg"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">the 63rd rebuilding</a> this year.</p>
<p><a href="https://walkkumano.com/iseji/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">My inspiration for this walk</a>—the amazing <a href="https://craigmod.com"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Craig Mod</a>—gives his permission to skip this section, so I go to Iseshi station, grab some breakfast and wait for the train to Tamaru near the edge of the city. I&rsquo;m walking <a href="https://walkkumano.com/iseji/gpx/iseji-ise_to_shingu-full_170km_walk.gpx"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Craig Mod&rsquo;s GPS trail</a> following it sometimes even including the exact road crossings. Having a ghost whose trail you walk in is uncanny but also the only way I can swing this in the first place. The wayfinding this provides and the research it saves are indispensable.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Signpost"
    width="1036"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/sign_hu_8ccaf94afde00ff5.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/sign_hu_8ccaf94afde00ff5.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/sign.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/sign.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I drop by the <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/7Yz8W4StCLSnFREC9"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Higashitokida shrine</a> and am seriously impressed by the sense of space it creates nestled in the trees, accessible through its gated gravel path. Leaving the shrine feels like coming back to the real world.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Crossing"
    width="1280"
    height="928"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/crossing_hu_a07b56181ad2da4c.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/crossing_hu_a07b56181ad2da4c.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/crossing.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/crossing.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The rain is a permanent fixture which could explain why I see so few people out and about. In my first hour of walking lots of kids cross my path on their way to school wearing their uniforms and helmets.</p>
<p>I take shelter at <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/M8bjJ97pLK4wj7TH7"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">the local post office</a> to wait out the worst of the rain. A jovial old man jumps out of his car and asks me where I&rsquo;m going. Misedani he feels is beautiful but I&rsquo;m too early because the leaves haven&rsquo;t turned yet. It&rsquo;s been way too hot this year. He goes in to do his business. I go on with my walk.</p>
<p>The Japanese weather forecasts report on the colors of the leaves. I wonder why Germany doesn&rsquo;t do this given how nice autumn colors here can be.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Stairs of Leaves"
    width="1013"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/stairs_hu_edf63d1c8c54c3c5.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/stairs_hu_edf63d1c8c54c3c5.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/stairs.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/stairs.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Making my way from one provincial road to another, I arrive at the first pass, <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/01.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Meki-toge</a>. It&rsquo;s hardly challenging with just a couple of steep segments and switch backs. Moving off the road and making your way over the mountain is beautiful and feels secluded even if civilization is only a couple of hundred meters away.</p>
<p>At the guardian deity there is a box with a trail booklet. Even though it&rsquo;s quite thin, it goes back years because there are so few people on this trail. The person signing in before me did so three days ago.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Shrine"
    width="1107"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/shrine_hu_49916173eead7308.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/shrine_hu_49916173eead7308.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/shrine.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/shrine.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Then comes a long uninspiring stretch along the main road. At this point I&rsquo;m hungry and sick of the rain and the cars. I cut around the route to make my way to <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/GmwR3n93pkfF595i8"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Cafe de Touhenvoku</a> which with its funky interior and pizza toast on the menu reveals itself to be a genuine <a href="https://shop.specialprojects.jp/products/kissa-by-kissa-4th-ed?variant=42844316762267"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Kissa</a>. I order the Katsu Curry and scarf it down. How excellent it is to eat something warm after a whole day of walking through the rain.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Kissaten"
    width="1280"
    height="960"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-1_hu_6f8315c3bb73bf5.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-1_hu_6f8315c3bb73bf5.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-1.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-1.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Kissaten"
    width="1280"
    height="917"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-2_hu_4641b9104d1f1e26.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-2_hu_4641b9104d1f1e26.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-2.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kissa-2.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I consider taking the train at Tochihara to skip to the end but my legs still being good, I loop back to the track and continue along the route. Good that I did, because otherwise I&rsquo;d have missed a romp through the riverbed and a bamboo forest.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Riverbed"
    width="958"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/river_hu_84e72b07eb567147.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/river_hu_84e72b07eb567147.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/river.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/river.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>From what is already a quiet road behind the rail tracks I go down to the river. It feels like another portal into a different world. The trail carries me along the stream which is reduced to the point where a small makeshift bridge gets me over it.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Iron bridge"
    width="1160"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bridge_hu_aa767f4f1ecad5.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bridge_hu_aa767f4f1ecad5.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bridge.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bridge.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Then I pass through a bamboo forest the likes of which I only know from movies. It&rsquo;s dense, imposing and makes this detour from my detour well worth it.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Standing in a bamboo forest"
    width="960"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bamboo_hu_37e0c65bf9dd471.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bamboo_hu_37e0c65bf9dd471.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bamboo.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/bamboo.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>A brief stop at <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/D8LdNdqDX481cjyP8"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">bread and coffee</a> in Kawazoe which true to its name sells bread and coffee, and children&rsquo;s toys. From that point on the walk is an incessant plod along the road. My painful feet and the fading light sap my morale. Official sundown is at 16:45 but that doesn&rsquo;t mean much if there&rsquo;s a huge mountain between you and the sun.</p>
<p>I pass a bunch of derelict buildings and <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/Dj9Woz13B7wyxJFP9"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">a very weird one</a> which turns out to be a church/cult.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Mr. Bear on the roadside"
    width="1280"
    height="1036"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kuma_hu_bec45960298cffdc.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kuma_hu_bec45960298cffdc.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kuma.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/kuma.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Mr Bear, the roadside stop pictured above, didn&rsquo;t make it unfortunately. It&rsquo;s one of many shuttered businesses along the road here.</p>
<p>The stretches of this walk along the road will not be appreciated much by hiking purists. In my treks through the Alps, any route that takes you on more than the absolutely necessary amount of tarmac—noticeable by the click-clack-ing of your hiking poles—is considered to be unacceptable.</p>
<p>By now I&rsquo;ve walked for more than an hour along the road and will have at least another half hour ahead of me. My legs are increasingly feeling the weight of the 9+ hours I&rsquo;ve been underway. I see on Google Maps that there will be a bus passing by in five minutes. Not giving it a second thought, I get on at the <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/zKAc8JarjvusDUbu6"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Shimo-Mise bus stop</a>. The entirely empty bus takes me the rest of the way to Misedani station. I hobble the final steps into my hotel.</p>
<p>I&rsquo;m staying at the <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/dttDrTfEW37QCdwU8"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Fairfield</a> which is bougie and has a continuous stream of foreigners passing through. My shower today will not be in a communal ofuro. In town there aren&rsquo;t that many restaurants open during the week. Many places are open during the weekend when there are more people in town.</p>
<p>I find a bowl of ramen and alcohol free Kirin at a <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/VEqWbiDQkmJoi3sc6"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">&ldquo;famous&rdquo; ramen place</a> where lots of kids with their parents eat. The ramen is nothing to write home about but the electrolytes and vegetables are very welcome. My legs come back to life.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Ramen"
    width="1280"
    height="1118"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/ramen_hu_8ea7cd919f02f9cb.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/ramen_hu_8ea7cd919f02f9cb.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/ramen.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-1-tamura-to-misedani/ramen.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The stats for the day say 33,53km and some 42k steps (<a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16558960888"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava</a>).</p>
<p>Today was brutal but it established what the upper limit of my output can be. Walking here needs to have an exit plan at around 3pm before dusk sets in. It&rsquo;s obvious now that I&rsquo;ll not be able to walk to Shingu in five days. I retire to my hotel room and plan the next day&rsquo;s steps.</p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Iseji - Day 2 - Misedani to Kiinagashima</title><link>https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/</link><pubDate>Fri, 28 Nov 2025 21:43:39 +0000</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Well before 7am I grab a quick breakfast at the local FamilyMart and supplies for the day ahead. I&amp;rsquo;m glad that these things are open 24 hours, but how is this possible? Maybe it&amp;rsquo;s better to not ask any questions&lt;sup id="fnref:1"&gt;&lt;a href="#fn:1" class="footnote-ref" role="doc-noteref"&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. No coffee to be found anywhere at this time, but the hotel espresso machine does a decent enough job.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well before 7am I grab a quick breakfast at the local FamilyMart and supplies for the day ahead. I&rsquo;m glad that these things are open 24 hours, but how is this possible? Maybe it&rsquo;s better to not ask any questions<sup id="fnref:1"><a href="#fn:1" class="footnote-ref" role="doc-noteref">1</a></sup>. No coffee to be found anywhere at this time, but the hotel espresso machine does a decent enough job.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Fire Trucks"
    width="1280"
    height="946"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/fire-trucks_hu_a58cc70c85f46dd7.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/fire-trucks_hu_a58cc70c85f46dd7.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/fire-trucks.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/fire-trucks.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Mural"
    width="1280"
    height="881"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/mural_hu_9391c455260616ca.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/mural_hu_9391c455260616ca.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/mural.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/mural.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I eat a pudding and go over the plan. After yesterday, today will be a lot more restrained. I&rsquo;ll start with the first pass just outside of Odai, <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/02.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Misesaka</a> though even that is a bit of a trek before I&rsquo;m at the trailhead.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="River"
    width="1280"
    height="1020"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/river_hu_65e4935f6d314f6a.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/river_hu_65e4935f6d314f6a.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/river.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/river.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Junk"
    width="1280"
    height="911"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/junk_hu_4e2138d1a215e7f9.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/junk_hu_4e2138d1a215e7f9.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/junk.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/junk.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>No rain today for which I&rsquo;m very grateful. That means there are somewhat more people out and about than yesterday but still not a huge amount. Again not that many opportunities to wish anybody an <em>ohayo</em>.</p>
<p>To my delight and reassurance at the trailhead there is a box where you can borrow a bear bell and grab a walking stick. You then leave it when you get to the other side where there&rsquo;s a similar arrangement. This is very considerate and something that I don&rsquo;t think is possible in Germany.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Bells"
    width="1280"
    height="845"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bells_hu_31d2b058fa79f232.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bells_hu_31d2b058fa79f232.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bells.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bells.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Trailhead"
    width="1280"
    height="957"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trailhead_hu_a2e557a2bdb2cc38.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trailhead_hu_a2e557a2bdb2cc38.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trailhead.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trailhead.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Japan is in a bear frenzy at the moment and there&rsquo;s hardly anything else on the news or on anybody&rsquo;s lips. I can report that the bear bell works, because I didn&rsquo;t see one. Or it could have something to do with how on <a href="https://kumamap.com"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Kumamap</a> this part of Japan has very few bear sightings.</p>
<p>Walking the pass is much nicer without rain. It&rsquo;s beautiful and just a bit of an effort. On the other side, <a href="https://en.taiki-okuise.jp/view/takiharaguu/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Takihara shrine</a> awaits. This is just before 10am and the monks are all up and about. They&rsquo;re moving stuff around for some kind of event. At one of the buildings a group of monks are busy in the inner sanctuary.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Trail"
    width="1154"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trail_hu_16988656906dc0f8.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trail_hu_16988656906dc0f8.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trail.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trail.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Entrance"
    width="983"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/entrance_hu_6d377671c4c742bf.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/entrance_hu_6d377671c4c742bf.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/entrance.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/entrance.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Watching these men in full regalia doing their spiritual business is impressive even though I don&rsquo;t know—nor probably will ever know—what they are doing. They wear beautiful hats with feathers which are <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanmuri_%28headwear%29#Structure"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">a kanmuri with its ei</a>.</p>
<p>As captivating as this scene is, that doesn&rsquo;t change the fact that I have to catch the 10:25 at <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/iSaBNohHReihSrbP6"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Takihara station</a>. If I don&rsquo;t, I&rsquo;ll be stuck here for three hours.</p>
<p>Double timing through the town is not fun with legs as sore as mine, but I get there with time to spare. The train itself is manned by a single person acting as conductor, driver and ticket seller. I see him point at something when the train stops and don&rsquo;t get it at first. Then I realize that he&rsquo;s practicing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pointing_and_calling"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">pointing-and-calling</a> which is a common practice in Japan.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Station"
    width="1280"
    height="864"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/station_hu_2275bfec141bd786.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/station_hu_2275bfec141bd786.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/station.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/station.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Platform"
    width="1280"
    height="1026"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/platform_hu_fdf8ab76c870ba98.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/platform_hu_fdf8ab76c870ba98.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/platform.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/platform.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I&rsquo;d considered taking the train to O-Uchiyama but given how sore my legs are, any bit of walking that is unnecessary should be discarded. I get off at Umegadani and make my way to the trailhead for the <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/03.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Nisaka</a> pass.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Shrines"
    width="1280"
    height="1041"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrines_hu_b48395b5e5bd1a32.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrines_hu_b48395b5e5bd1a32.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrines.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrines.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Trees"
    width="1280"
    height="889"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trees_hu_4fa9d1ea82f23eaf.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trees_hu_4fa9d1ea82f23eaf.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trees.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/trees.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>At Nisaka there&rsquo;s a similar arrangement with the bells and now we also add another dangerous animal to our repertoire: the viper.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Signs"
    width="1280"
    height="849"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/signs_hu_a24ed32cb16256aa.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/signs_hu_a24ed32cb16256aa.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/signs.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/signs.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Viper"
    width="1280"
    height="1111"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/viper_hu_c8e295e96000c0b0.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/viper_hu_c8e295e96000c0b0.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/viper.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/viper.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>This is also where the stunning coastal views start. On the way down there&rsquo;s the occasional choice between the Meiji and Edo routes, one meandering and the other straight and vertical.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="View"
    width="1147"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/view_hu_7e4eb7918529bcf9.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/view_hu_7e4eb7918529bcf9.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/view.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/view.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Path"
    width="1214"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/path_hu_9b18b046310eac13.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/path_hu_9b18b046310eac13.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/path.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/path.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I find myself fighting against the sun on the walk out in what is end of November. Next resupply will have to include sunscreen.</p>
<p>With lunchtime approaching I&rsquo;m eager to make it into town where I&rsquo;ve scoped out some restaurants. Being in civilization at a time when gastronomy is open is not self-evident on this walk.</p>
<p>I make my way around a small lake where I find <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/8pk2gSR2NpHUAwAT7"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Kappa Club</a>, a mix between a beach club and a kissaten. Locals make their way to the lake here to relax and have some lunch. I treat myself to a well-deserved shrimp plate, <em>nama</em> (draft beer) and coffee while I watch several <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_kite"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">black kites</a> circle over the water. This arrangement is so lovely I stay there for more than an hour taking in the view and the atmosphere.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Shrimp"
    width="1280"
    height="1009"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrimp_hu_3d9cbd9c37eae9bb.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrimp_hu_3d9cbd9c37eae9bb.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrimp.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/shrimp.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Bay"
    width="1280"
    height="878"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bay_hu_cdf73656aa041568.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bay_hu_cdf73656aa041568.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bay.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/bay.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>A bit further along there&rsquo;s a very promising coffee truck <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/bspa4M8hZWzHzheCA"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">cafe kiihot</a> which sadly isn&rsquo;t open today.</p>
<p>I head into town to find my accommodation but not before stopping at the <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/UdmikCD6wEkVd9HZA"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Cocokarafine</a> to get trail care supplies. A Japanese big-box drugstore is something you have to see to believe. The variety of products and the sensory overload they provide are more of a marvel than many of the sights along the Kumano Kodo.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="KokoCarafine"
    width="1280"
    height="960"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/koko_hu_4a0c74f0475269f1.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/koko_hu_4a0c74f0475269f1.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/koko.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/koko.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I walk to my guest house in the old town when the owner of restaurant Kappa runs into me on the street and takes me on a tour of a repurposed <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/jFhGqNXGGytYGsmBA"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">sento that&rsquo;s now a fishery museum</a>. The objects in the museum are an interesting jumble but judging from the pictures the place comes alive during the events they host.</p>
<p>I&rsquo;m staying at <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/QVg1PBzMZmi6JaWw6"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Toyohisa</a> tonight where I have an entire floor to myself. The host insists on making me dinner in a way that I feel I can&rsquo;t refuse. She makes shrimp along with fried fish and sashimi cut from fresh local fish. I eat it while she sits in the kitchen eating hers and having a drink. We talk about Kyoto jazz cafes and bears and solar panels. My legs are happy they don&rsquo;t have to walk anywhere anymore.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Dinner"
    width="1280"
    height="980"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/dinner_hu_188ac17096251769.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/dinner_hu_188ac17096251769.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/dinner.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/dinner.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Except for these highly sketchy stairs I have to go down if I want to use the restroom.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Stairs"
    width="990"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/stairs_hu_16415874d9be8b70.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/stairs_hu_16415874d9be8b70.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/stairs.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-2-misedani-to-kiinagashima/stairs.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The stats for the day say 26,86km and some 34k steps (<a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16568003972"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava1</a>, <a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16569422796"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava2</a>).</p>
<p>As I write this I find the video that Craig Mod posted about one of his days along the route. Part of it covers what I walked today and it&rsquo;s a picture perfect match with how my day went: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QL5GB2vdS8"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QL5GB2vdS8</a></p>
<p>This has been a very full day with so many different experiences and small victories that it&rsquo;s hard to take in. I can&rsquo;t believe that this is only day two. More tomorrow.</p>
<div class="footnotes" role="doc-endnotes">
<hr>
<ol>
<li id="fn:1">
<p>s. <a href="https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20251114/p2a/00m/0bu/032000c"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Store owner regrets &lsquo;slave contracts&rsquo; with major Japanese convenience store chain Ministop</a>&#160;<a href="#fnref:1" class="footnote-backref" role="doc-backlink">&#x21a9;&#xfe0e;</a></p>
</li>
</ol>
</div>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Iseji - Day 3 - Kiinagashima to Owase</title><link>https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/</link><pubDate>Sun, 30 Nov 2025 11:18:06 +0000</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Another day and yet another short night. Getting up at all is not easy, let alone getting up early.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Another day and yet another short night. Getting up at all is not easy, let alone getting up early.</p>
<p>My host offers to refund me the money (a trifle) for dinner because she felt she was too pushy. Of course I don&rsquo;t accept. The food was plentiful, home cooked and she saved my legs. I eat the standard Japanese breakfast and get on my way.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Gate"
    width="1122"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/gate_hu_b6f30c1a544575cf.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/gate_hu_b6f30c1a544575cf.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/gate.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/gate.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Tunnel entrance"
    width="1100"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/tunnel_hu_926a9372ae8fd27d.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/tunnel_hu_926a9372ae8fd27d.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/tunnel.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/tunnel.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The first segment is a stroll over a light pass with a sea view and then circle around the harbour, the coast and some of the local beaches.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Bay"
    width="1280"
    height="871"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/bay_hu_8fb4e99f1a58a7f0.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/bay_hu_8fb4e99f1a58a7f0.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/bay.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/bay.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Showers"
    width="1183"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/showers_hu_1194ebbf5d27be53.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/showers_hu_1194ebbf5d27be53.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/showers.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/showers.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The seaside here looks like it could be lovely. My Berlin barista told me he would come to Mie to surf back in the day. It looks like that could be amazing though it seems to happen more on the Eastern coast like at Koushirahama.</p>
<p>The passes themselves, <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/06.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Ikkoku-toge, Hirakata-toge and Miura-toge</a> are short work but it is where I meet the first other people on trail so far. Two old geezers have driven here and are doing their morning <em>sanpo</em> (stroll) up the pass and back down to the car. The pass itself is short work with maybe 3-4 switchbacks.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Forest"
    width="1280"
    height="1017"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/forest_hu_6d64a4ead52f9a34.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/forest_hu_6d64a4ead52f9a34.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/forest.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/forest.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Coastal view"
    width="1280"
    height="902"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/coast_hu_674a6c6efe11c1ea.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/coast_hu_674a6c6efe11c1ea.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/coast.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/coast.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>In <a href="https://walkkumano.com/iseji/#day4"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Craig Mod&rsquo;s account</a> it says the walking from Minose to Aiga is relatively miserable, so that&rsquo;s a perfect excuse for me to skip it and take the 11:37 train. Catching that is essential because it lines me up nicely for Magose. Missing it would mean the rest of the day would be a loss.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Rail"
    width="1150"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/rail_hu_ccf70a04d81239da.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/rail_hu_ccf70a04d81239da.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/rail.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/rail.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>At the Minose train station a team is re-roofing the shack. Nice to see infrastructure investment like that even in the most rural of places.</p>
<p>During the train ride I see some fellow hikers (also a first!). One Japanese woman in the train going alone and a Western couple at Funatsu station who don&rsquo;t board. It looks like they are walking the entire thing.</p>
<p>Aiga has quite some stuff going on for it in gastronomy. I&rsquo;m not very hungry so I stop quickly behind the train station at <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/k2mJFPubxJwdLdUi7"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Cafe do Selecao</a> for a strengthening coffee before the climb ahead. The coffee is good but the owner keeps trying to convince me bears are super dangerous around here. I&rsquo;m not a bear denialist, but there&rsquo;s no reason to be stressed about them in this part of Japan.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="River"
    width="1280"
    height="892"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/river_hu_6095e1718304eede.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/river_hu_6095e1718304eede.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/river.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/river.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Path"
    width="1015"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/path_hu_4795c29f0e09d677.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/path_hu_4795c29f0e09d677.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/path.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/path.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>It&rsquo;s a bit of a walk to get to the climb and walking up the stone path is somewhat strenuous. Still no rain which is good since according to the cafe owner Mie is the rainiest part of Japan. Even in the best conditions I clock at around 15 minutes for 100m of elevation. The 330m here takes the better part of an hour.</p>
<p>At the pass I catch some summit fever and make the ‘fantastic’ decision to push for the top. The trail consists of stairs but of the kind that make an Amsterdam apartment staircase look reasonable. Going up I catch myself thinking: &ldquo;That&rsquo;s steep! I wonder how I&rsquo;ll get down.&rdquo;, then I think to myself: &ldquo;Can&rsquo;t worry about that now! That&rsquo;s a problem for future Alper to figure out.&rdquo;</p>
<p>I go up and encounter a Western couple absolutely balling it down from the summit. To my amazement the man has a baby in a front carrier. I admire the show of confidence here but one misstep and that baby is toast. It is acceptable to carry kids up and down a mountain, but we&rsquo;d only consider doing it using a <a href="https://www.alpenverein.de/artikel/kinderkraxen_c98fcd75-3e52-43e6-9cae-ac1c41512895"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">kraxe</a>, not an ergo baby.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="City"
    width="1280"
    height="824"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/city_hu_507bed61b0f2d2a9.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/city_hu_507bed61b0f2d2a9.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/city.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/city.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Me at the summit"
    width="960"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/summit_hu_2861360071ccffc0.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/summit_hu_2861360071ccffc0.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/summit.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/summit.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The summit itself has a small clearing with a shrine enveloped by a bunch of huge boulders. Scrambling on top of one, I can look down on the entire city and look out over the bay. The view is as spectacular as the vertigo.</p>
<p>The true summit is the top of a huge boulder accessible through a very rickety metal ladder. I decide to save that for another day.</p>
<p>Going down I have to really take the descent step by step. My knee is definitely not happy with all of this and starts radiating heat. Back at the pass, a group of eight or so Japanese hikers are doing the Magose as well. They are fully decked out in outdoor kit and have a guide with them. Shouts of amazement greet me coming down that I&rsquo;m doing this <em>hitori</em> (alone) when another guy comes jogging up from the Owase side and makes straight for the summit. He says he does this every day.</p>
<p>That&rsquo;s more people on the trail today than I saw in the previous days combined.</p>
<p>The walk down is uneventful and leads me through a large and active cemetery. Walking into Owase proper I try to hunt down a bite and a coffee before checking in to my accommodation. It&rsquo;s hard to find anything. Many stores are not up to date in either Google Maps or tabélog.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Happy Bow"
    width="1280"
    height="897"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/apotheke_hu_7f6570114ce465a.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/apotheke_hu_7f6570114ce465a.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/apotheke.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/apotheke.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>What does help me find a nice place, is just walking and looking around. I stumble on <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/hXRiQb1qs9rEERzE9"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">a coffee and wine place</a> with a proper espresso machine. An “Apotheke” sign on the building betrays that this used to be the pharmacy and the inside has been repurposed to be modern and open. I get my cappuccino and see the young and creative people of Owase gather in the place.</p>
<p>People are doing interesting things, even in Owase, and it remains true that “new ideas, need old buildings”. I see a general theme of repurposing happening all over anyway. From the sento turned museum, to plots of land now being used as solar farms, to new semi-temporary restaurants and cafes popping up.</p>
<p>I check in without talking to a human into an empty family house in a residential area. The entire house, both floors, is mine for the night for a song.</p>
<p>For dinner I go to a place called <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/66DQ7zMBXf26izMp8"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Inaka</a> which has a reputation as a fantastic family-run <a href="https://guide.michelin.com/en/article/dining-out/what-is-japanese-kappo-cuisine"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">kappou</a> restaurant. I have some trouble trying to figure out what to order, but fortunately they have a summary of their menu in English. After a long day of hiking I don&rsquo;t have the mental fortitude to deal with very complicated food situations.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Set menu"
    width="1280"
    height="960"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/set_hu_75604c39dc1a9c05.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/set_hu_75604c39dc1a9c05.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/set.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/set.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Porcelain collection"
    width="1280"
    height="892"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/porcelain_hu_5952c0c9d72deb7a.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/porcelain_hu_5952c0c9d72deb7a.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/porcelain.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-3-kiinagashima-to-owase/porcelain.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>What they delivered is absolute art. Probably the best meal I&rsquo;ve had so far. The variety, the care, the detail and the different platings are out of the world. You can see the people cooking are related in the familiar home-cooking way they do their work behind the counter. It&rsquo;s somewhat pricey but I&rsquo;m happy to pay for the food and the experience.</p>
<p>After dinner I make a tour of the city and Owase does not look at all dead to me. During the afternoon I saw lots of kids running around freely. Now the streets are empty, but it looks like every izakaya is more or less full and people are getting ready for a night of drinking at the local karaoke, sunakku, bar or ‘nightclub’.</p>
<p>Fun as that sounds, that&rsquo;s an amount of being awake and drinking which my current schedule does not allow, so off to bed it is for me.</p>
<p>The stats for the day say 19.94km and some 34k steps (<a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16578124601"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava1</a>, <a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16578971811"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava2</a>).</p>
<p>For tomorrow I&rsquo;m doing some more drastic replanning. I only have two days left and an awful lot of walk ahead of me. I figure that <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/10.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">tomorrow&rsquo;s mountain</a> will be my <em>Angstgegner</em> as it was for many people before me. The time indications can be trusted and 5h would eat up my entire day for not that much distance gained<sup id="fnref:1"><a href="#fn:1" class="footnote-ref" role="doc-noteref">1</a></sup>.</p>
<p>Reading <a href="https://walkkumano.com/iseji/#day6"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">the end of Craig Mod&rsquo;s report</a> it seems both that assessment is true and that it&rsquo;s possible to do the chunk after the mountain in two days. That would make it an obvious choice to skip it. I&rsquo;m going to see exactly how to do that over breakfast tomorrow which I&rsquo;ll take after sleeping in. The lack of sleep is wearing on me.</p>
<div class="footnotes" role="doc-endnotes">
<hr>
<ol>
<li id="fn:1">
<p>As a rule of thumb, every 1km of altitude is equivalent in effort to 10km of distance.&#160;<a href="#fnref:1" class="footnote-backref" role="doc-backlink">&#x21a9;&#xfe0e;</a></p>
</li>
</ol>
</div>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Iseji - Day 4 - Owase to Atashika</title><link>https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/</link><pubDate>Fri, 28 Nov 2025 15:11:44 +0000</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;figure&gt;&lt;img
class="my-0 rounded-md"
loading="lazy"
decoding="async"
fetchpriority="auto"
alt="Owase"
width="1280"
height="896"
src="https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase_hu_1cf25d4716a89350.jpeg"
srcset="https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase_hu_1cf25d4716a89350.jpeg 800w, https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase.jpeg 1280w"
sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
data-zoom-src="https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase.jpeg"&gt;&lt;/figure&gt;
&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Owase"
    width="1280"
    height="896"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase_hu_1cf25d4716a89350.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase_hu_1cf25d4716a89350.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/owase.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The train I have to catch this morning only runs after 9am so I take the opportunity to get a real breakfast for a change. <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/TpzjiXTJikwasuqc9"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Scale</a> is as good as expected. People are lining up before opening time to get in on the action. I attack my plate like a wild animal and am well underway to the FamilyMart and the train station by 08:30.</p>
<p>The train to Mikisato it is. I can read it even without romanization because it&rsquo;s just ‘three’ 三 ‘tree’ 木 ‘village’ 里. That means there&rsquo;s probably two- and four- tree villages out there as well.<sup id="fnref:1"><a href="#fn:1" class="footnote-ref" role="doc-noteref">1</a></sup></p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Train View"
    width="1280"
    height="746"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/train-view_hu_229258fbc5f59089.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/train-view_hu_229258fbc5f59089.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/train-view.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/train-view.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>At Mikisato I see a man with a baby and his parents struggling to get on the train. On these single driver operated carriages, there&rsquo;s only one door that opens to regulate the flow of passengers. After pointing out where to get on, I call out: &ldquo;How did you guys end up here?&rdquo;
He says “he lives there” and the train takes off. How do you live somewhere and not know how the trains work?</p>
<p>The goal today is to get to Kumano since I <a href="https://walkkumano.com/iseji/#day7"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">read that it could be done</a> in one day.</p>
<p>From Mikisato quickly I completely the double whammy of <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/11.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Miki-toge/Hago-toge</a>. It rained a lot last night, so everything is quite slippery. On the trailhead they thoughtfully provide sticks again to ward off the bears.</p>
<p>I&rsquo;m regretting not bringing my hiking poles an awful lot. I think calling this a ‘walk’ really threw me off<sup id="fnref:2"><a href="#fn:2" class="footnote-ref" role="doc-noteref">2</a></sup>. This is very much a hike and a fairly strenuous one at that.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Stone Path"
    width="1225"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/toge_hu_e965dd943076cdc1.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/toge_hu_e965dd943076cdc1.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/toge.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/toge.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I don&rsquo;t really see very many shrines today which is worrisome. Their constant presence is a reassuring touch point on these walks.</p>
<p>I find another trail booklet and the people there also report zero bears but they do say they saw monkeys. I&rsquo;m sad that I didn&rsquo;t see any monkeys.</p>
<p>Then it&rsquo;s down to Kata.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Bridge Construction"
    width="1280"
    height="844"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/kata-bridge_hu_9690c674d2eaba21.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/kata-bridge_hu_9690c674d2eaba21.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/kata-bridge.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/kata-bridge.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Kata didn&rsquo;t have fishing rights historically. Weird how one town next to the sea would be able to fish and the next wouldn&rsquo;t. Staying on the theme of rural infrastructure investment, they&rsquo;re having a new bridge built here.</p>
<p>I take a break and eat some of the snacks I brought. There is no convenience store on this entire stretch which tells you something about how remote it is.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Statues"
    width="1280"
    height="942"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/statues_hu_43fa82fb4e49f3f7.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/statues_hu_43fa82fb4e49f3f7.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/statues.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/statues.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The next pass, <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/12.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Hobo-toge</a> goes all the way up to 350m of altitude. That&rsquo;s about as much as the mountain pass yesterday but it does feel a lot easier.</p>
<p>After hitting the pass, every time I think it&rsquo;s going to go down, another section of climbing follows. Up and down it goes for a while after which I have to drop the entire 300m in very short order to get down to Nigishima.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Stone Path"
    width="1072"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/stone-path_hu_3f35322d5b444aaa.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/stone-path_hu_3f35322d5b444aaa.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/stone-path.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/stone-path.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>On the way down it becomes obvious that my knee isn&rsquo;t really having it and it takes about as long to get down as it took to get up. This knee had a new ACL grafted into it a couple of years ago. It&rsquo;s healed well which is why I didn&rsquo;t give it much thought, but now I don&rsquo;t want to take any chances.</p>
<p>Timing myself, the three hours in the description for the pass are accurate. It&rsquo;s after 2pm now so it becomes clear that doing another pass will only complete after dark and then there&rsquo;s no way I&rsquo;ll be able to push on to Kumano.</p>
<p>I drop that plan and stick with my already booked accommodation in Atashika. I confirm dinner and breakfast with the host—remember there&rsquo;s absolutely nothing out here—and then wait for the train out.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Nigishima Port"
    width="1280"
    height="931"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nigishima_hu_221bab83b8f746d9.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nigishima_hu_221bab83b8f746d9.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nigishima.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nigishima.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>There are worse ways to spend two hours than sitting in a gazebo in a tiny port town. Sitting around doing nothing is a welcome change from having to keep pushing on all the time. I buy some hot beverages from the vending machine, eat my snacks and chat with the people stopping by to use the facilities.</p>
<p>Not being high up in the mountains and walking along the train line allows this kind of flexibility. It&rsquo;s possible to completely change plans and reschedule because there are 4-5 trains still stopping at even this super tiny place.</p>
<p>The train comes at 16:18 as promised and after a short hop to Atashika I make my way back up the hills to my lodgings. The sun has long disappeared and dusk is setting in. I FaceTime my kids while walking and by the time I arrive it&rsquo;s really starting to get dark. Not a time when you want to be stuck on a trail or even a backroad here.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Sea View"
    width="1280"
    height="900"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/sea-view_hu_c049ce4d355e9de2.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/sea-view_hu_c049ce4d355e9de2.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/sea-view.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/sea-view.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The guesthouse is run by a lovely septuagenarian retired woman who&rsquo;s studying English and has traveled all over the world with her husband. I wondered why people would live in these tiny remote towns. She says they have moved here after retirement and from the hill her living room has a stellar sea view. I think I understand it.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Nabe"
    width="1280"
    height="1018"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nabe_hu_38023c8c7d32ec54.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nabe_hu_38023c8c7d32ec54.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nabe.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-4-owase-to-atashika/nabe.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>My host cooks me a delicious <em>nabe</em> meal. The hot brorth and rice are great already for somebody who&rsquo;s cold and has been walking all day. But she fills up the pot with an unbelievable amount of vegetables, mushrooms and meat. That&rsquo;s the best meal I could&rsquo;ve had right now.</p>
<p>The stats for the day say 15.94km and some 25.5k steps (<a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16588324121"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava1</a>, <a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16588916093"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava2</a>).</p>
<p>I turn in and spend way too long sitting on my room&rsquo;s balcony taking in the view of the bay.</p>
<div class="footnotes" role="doc-endnotes">
<hr>
<ol>
<li id="fn:1">
<p>Turns out that there aren&rsquo;t.&#160;<a href="#fnref:1" class="footnote-backref" role="doc-backlink">&#x21a9;&#xfe0e;</a></p>
</li>
<li id="fn:2">
<p>Even though trekking poles are on <a href="https://walkkumano.com/iseji/#gear"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Craig Mod&rsquo;s gear list</a> I omitted them to travel very lightly on this one pack trip to Japan.&#160;<a href="#fnref:2" class="footnote-backref" role="doc-backlink">&#x21a9;&#xfe0e;</a></p>
</li>
</ol>
</div>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Iseji - Day 5 - Atashika to Shingu</title><link>https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/</link><pubDate>Sat, 29 Nov 2025 11:14:02 +0000</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;figure&gt;&lt;img
class="my-0 rounded-md"
loading="lazy"
decoding="async"
fetchpriority="auto"
alt="Sunrise"
width="1280"
height="862"
src="https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise_hu_d444788f11daf856.jpeg"
srcset="https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise_hu_d444788f11daf856.jpeg 800w, https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise.jpeg 1280w"
sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
data-zoom-src="https://alper.nl/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise.jpeg"&gt;&lt;/figure&gt;
&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Sunrise"
    width="1280"
    height="862"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise_hu_d444788f11daf856.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise_hu_d444788f11daf856.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sunrise.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The last day and the final bit of hiking. After that, instead of walking along the beach for 25km, I&rsquo;ll take a quick train ride to Shingu. It&rsquo;s been an amazing couple of days but it&rsquo;s time to wrap this thing up.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Breakfast"
    width="1280"
    height="839"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/breakfast_hu_7d1ed873e51bcc60.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/breakfast_hu_7d1ed873e51bcc60.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/breakfast.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/breakfast.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>My host makes me a lovely and scrumptious breakfast with self-baked rolls and gives me rice and fruit for on the trail.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Stone Path"
    width="1015"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stone-path_hu_4382d68eef9dbd55.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stone-path_hu_4382d68eef9dbd55.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stone-path.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stone-path.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>The first part is <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/14.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Hadasu-no-michi</a>, the road to Hadasu, and it&rsquo;s a breeze. At the top of a hill some animals come running at me which startles me until I realize it&rsquo;s just a chicken coop. I almost miss the exit to Hadasu which features the oldest Kamakura era stone path.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Slope"
    width="1280"
    height="1020"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/down_hu_994b55e49b4b7331.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/down_hu_994b55e49b4b7331.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/down.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/down.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Then the next bit, <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/15.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Obuki-toge</a>, will be the real deal. The last ‘high’ pass with 300m of elevation. Not a huge amount, but still the equivalent of 1000 steps on the stairmaster.</p>
<p>The signage is scant here and the path is barely visible. I track along the stream trying to keep the GPS bearing. Down here between the trees it isn&rsquo;t that accurate but I manage to find something of a path going up.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Path"
    width="1268"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/path_hu_8cfc6f9ff702d4e9.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/path_hu_8cfc6f9ff702d4e9.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/path.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/path.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Then the overgrowth takes over and everything is covered by high ferns. I can&rsquo;t even see the rocks on the ground two steps further, let alone anything that at some point of time may have been a path. I don&rsquo;t know what else to do other than push in the general direction and bushwhack my way to the top. There the path picks up again and I see signs pointing to the pass.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Roots"
    width="1051"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/roots_hu_7c42120fc7ae0283.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/roots_hu_7c42120fc7ae0283.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/roots.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/roots.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>From then on it&rsquo;s a quick romp along a wall meant to fend off wild boars. This seems an odd place to do agriculture but otherwise these walls would not be there.</p>
<p>Walking is pretty easy by now. The trouble with hiking is that your body becomes conditioned after 5-7 days and from that point you want to do more and more of it. But usually the trip is over at that point and normal life kicks back in.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Sea"
    width="1144"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sea_hu_727c807a7f1911a3.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sea_hu_727c807a7f1911a3.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sea.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/sea.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Beach"
    width="1071"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/beach_hu_76b96a2d8810e690.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/beach_hu_76b96a2d8810e690.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/beach.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/beach.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I come down at Odomari and am met by another amazing sight. The beach here is lovely and a dip in the ocean is a must. I strip and change into my swimming clothes on an entirely empty beach and plunge into the water. I brought my swimming trunks and a tiny towel specifically for this moment.</p>
<p>The water isn&rsquo;t even that cold and the first waves hitting my poor feet feel divine. The waves are strong and pull at me but I don&rsquo;t have time to go swimming.</p>
<p>I dry up, circle around town and get ready for the last trailhead and the <a href="https://www.kodo.pref.mie.lg.jp/en/course/17.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Matsumoto-toge</a>. This pass has 135m of elevation and no switchbacks. It will be over very quickly now.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Stairs"
    width="1176"
    height="1280"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stairs_hu_67004b57e5c11382.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stairs_hu_67004b57e5c11382.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stairs.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/stairs.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I go up and down and before I know it, I&rsquo;m in Kumano pushing along a grim—not even beachfront—straight road. I shimmy to the Mos Burger for my lunch, then to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/chikotto___"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Chikotto</a> in front of the station for a coffee. It&rsquo;s a lovely place that has opened very recently.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Mos Burger"
    width="1280"
    height="780"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/mos-burger_hu_9e5d12c63055c109.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/mos-burger_hu_9e5d12c63055c109.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/mos-burger.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/mos-burger.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>My train leaves and I get out at Shingu so I can already buy the train ticket for the last fast train to Nagoya at 17:31. There are more than a few foreigners here, mostly from the other Kumano Kodo routes, and station staff to help them work the ticket machines.</p>
<p>I quickly walk to the shrine, stand in line to clap my hands and buy an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ema_%28Shinto%29"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">ema</a> with Yatagarasu on it. This shrine is big and very busy with people coming here from all over for all kinds of reasons. A family with children is dressed in traditional clothes receiving a blessing from the priest. Some Japanese people make a point of praying at each of the shrines. Tourists gather here to get their stamps and buy their souvenirs. But me, I&rsquo;m done. Done!</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Kumano Hayatama Taisha"
    width="1280"
    height="970"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/taisha_hu_478aed4a3908e041.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/taisha_hu_478aed4a3908e041.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/taisha.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/taisha.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>Arriving in front of the shrine is a mixed feeling of accomplishment, being tired and somewhat elated and also of not really knowing what to do now. Walking here was something of a purpose and now that purpose is gone.</p>
<p>I walk around town a bunch but I&rsquo;m not that hungry. I find a bakery, <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/SbKTtgA7QKHSRqEN6"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Megane</a>, where they have a Marzocco machine and know how to use it. They serve me the best coffee I had so far on this trip and an incredible pastry. This place can stand the test with the best anywhere.</p>
<p><figure><img
    class="my-0 rounded-md"
    loading="lazy"
    decoding="async"
    fetchpriority="auto"
    alt="Megane bakery"
    width="1280"
    height="937"
    src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/megane_hu_13195a1aa34727e7.jpeg"
    srcset="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/megane_hu_13195a1aa34727e7.jpeg 800w, /posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/megane.jpeg 1280w"
    sizes="(min-width: 768px) 50vw, 65vw"
    data-zoom-src="/posts/iseji-day-5-atashika-to-shingu/megane.jpeg"></figure>
</p>
<p>I try to find interesting souvenirs or a store where I can buy some fresh clothes, but come up empty on both counts. What is open is very sleepy and I&rsquo;m done with walking. I find a cute takoyaki place, <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/77EZtyYNwGEF7T2x7"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Paso</a>, on the other side of the tracks and I call it a day.</p>
<p>The stats for the day say 14.32km and some 30k steps (<a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16596439572"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava1</a>, <a href="https://www.strava.com/activities/16596642134"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">strava2</a>).</p>
<p>Sitting in the train to Nagoya then and seeing all those stations pass by that I walked through: Owase, Kiinagashima, Misedani. It makes for a weird mood. I&rsquo;ve been at all of them over the course of days and now we roll the entire thing back in the span of a couple of hours.</p>
<p>The walk is done. I&rsquo;m going on to Tokyo to complete this trip but I will be back. There is so much more Japan to be walked in my future.</p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Software can be finished</title><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18943/</link><pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2026 13:09:40 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18943/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;The global cybersecurity disaster that consisted of yesterday&amp;rsquo;s &lt;a href="https://www.php2shell.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"&gt;critical vulnerabilities in the PHP project&lt;/a&gt; is a good moment to talk about the natural life cycle of open source projects. There are cases where it may be better to shut things down.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The global cybersecurity disaster that consisted of yesterday&rsquo;s <a href="https://www.php2shell.com"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">critical vulnerabilities in the PHP project</a> is a good moment to talk about the natural life cycle of open source projects. There are cases where it may be better to shut things down.</p>
<p>The PHP foundation&rsquo;s response looked inadequate and not well coordinated. The exploit was leaked and the fix was neither expedited nor rolled out quickly. The consortium of companies that participated in the release were mostly interested in using this security incident as a marketing opportunity. The details of how the response was fumbled and how to improve it is something that will be discussed in the following days. PHP and other orgs have promised improvements to their governance and processes.</p>
<p>The fixes have been back ported to older versions of PHP by a third party who filled the gap left by the official PHP release cycle. Even then, for large parts of the internet the fix may never happen. The fundamental nature of PHP as a technology and the governance they can effect do not seem in any way suitable to the scale of the problem they have let loose on the world.</p>
<p>PHP&rsquo;s nature is that as a programming language it is bad. It had a moment and that moment passed decades ago. Software is subject to a lifecycle. Perl is dead for all intents and purposes. Ruby is well past its prime and should be considered legacy software sooner rather than later.</p>
<p>The only correct answer to yesterday&rsquo;s exploit as a professional software organisation is: “We don&rsquo;t run PHP.” Nobody should be deploying PHP on the internet in this day and age. That a privacy focused enterprise collaboration suite such as <a href="https://github.com/nextcloud/server"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">NextCloud</a> is written in PHP is laughable.</p>
<p>Large C/C++ codebases like the <a href="https://github.com/php/php-src"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">PHP</a> one are fundamentally unsecurable. There&rsquo;s nothing that tells us we won&rsquo;t see 10 more exploits of this scale coming out in the next years. Every poorly maintained online PHP property should be considered to be toxic waste. Yes, that includes all of <a href="http://wordpress.org"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Wordpress</a>.</p>
<p>The only way out is to either port the language itself to a memory safe language or to port your code to something less exploitable. Both manoeuvres are practical enough these days that there&rsquo;s no excuse not to do it. Nobody is locked into anything anymore and it&rsquo;s hard to believe that writing PHP in particular is the thing that makes somebody&rsquo;s heart sing. I have no stakes in it but probably if all these people would <a href="https://blainsmith.com/articles/just-fucking-use-go/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">just write Go</a>, a lot of this could have been avoided. I moved this blog off Wordpress to Hugo with some help from Claude and it has been a blessing.</p>
<p>Open source maintainers often complain about their lack of resources to do the tasks they ‘need’ to do. Undoubtedly they are right, but since we only have so many resources to go around it&rsquo;s probably better to cut and focus rather than try to keep every project alive and secure. One answer to a lack of resources and recognition can be to just drop the work. Why would you keep going while at the same time complaining about it? Most people who believe they can&rsquo;t be replaced are entirely wrong.</p>
<p>We don&rsquo;t need this many interpreted web languages. More generally we don&rsquo;t need half a dozen open source libraries doing the same thing. Sometimes the mature thing can be even for a project that is very ‘successful’—especially if that success is by now mostly toxic—to consider the project finished, cut a final release and archive the repos.</p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18942/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:18:22 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18942/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;The Shimano museum seems like a must-visit attraction next time I find myself in the general area.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Shimano museum seems like a must-visit attraction next time I find myself in the general area.</p>
<p><a href="https://inrng.com/2026/10/shimano-bicycle-museum/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://inrng.com/2026/10/shimano-bicycle-museum/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18941/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:13:21 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18941/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Google search as a product feels like it&amp;rsquo;s dying. No idea what&amp;rsquo;s happening there anymore.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Google search as a product feels like it&rsquo;s dying. No idea what&rsquo;s happening there anymore.</p>
<p><a href="https://sancho.bearblog.dev/google-weird/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://sancho.bearblog.dev/google-weird/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18940/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:12:48 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18940/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I learned a bunch of stuff about passkeys here and I continue to be validated in my decision not to use them. It&amp;rsquo;s very complicated and opaque and the ‘just trust me bro‘ from the various proponents who are employed by large tech companies is not an adequate guarantee.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I learned a bunch of stuff about passkeys here and I continue to be validated in my decision not to use them. It&rsquo;s very complicated and opaque and the ‘just trust me bro‘ from the various proponents who are employed by large tech companies is not an adequate guarantee.</p>
<p><a href="https://nonfunctional.substack.com/p/passkeys-are-a-trap-do-not-use-them"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://nonfunctional.substack.com/p/passkeys-are-a-trap-do-not-use-them</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18939/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:11:45 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18939/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A useful guide how to capture state transitions in your postgres database reliably.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A useful guide how to capture state transitions in your postgres database reliably.</p>
<p><a href="https://thoughtbot.com/blog/inserting-state-transitions-in-postgres"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://thoughtbot.com/blog/inserting-state-transitions-in-postgres</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18938/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:09:48 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18938/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A really simple bit of digital activation in Zohran Mamdanis&amp;rsquo; communication which is one of many parts that make him so effective.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A really simple bit of digital activation in Zohran Mamdanis&rsquo; communication which is one of many parts that make him so effective.</p>
<p><a href="https://iamwillwang.com/notes/zohran-and-the-short-link"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://iamwillwang.com/notes/zohran-and-the-short-link</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18937/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:07:17 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18937/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;It&amp;rsquo;s very cool that it&amp;rsquo;s possible to reverse engineer your hardware and rewrite the firmware. I&amp;rsquo;m not sure if this will break out to become a widespread thing but it could if a bunch of things around UI design and LLMs come together.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&rsquo;s very cool that it&rsquo;s possible to reverse engineer your hardware and rewrite the firmware. I&rsquo;m not sure if this will break out to become a widespread thing but it could if a bunch of things around UI design and LLMs come together.</p>
<p>Every piece of hardware has its own personalized generated UI standardized and skinned to my preferences.</p>
<p><a href="https://bensimms.moe/reverse-engineering-scooter/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://bensimms.moe/reverse-engineering-scooter/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18936/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:06:01 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18936/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;We&amp;rsquo;ll see more of these venture funded projects revert back to the mean which in this case is Node, which has gotten seriously better over the past years. Open source is slow and steady and it endures.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We&rsquo;ll see more of these venture funded projects revert back to the mean which in this case is Node, which has gotten seriously better over the past years. Open source is slow and steady and it endures.</p>
<p><a href="https://dbushell.com/2026/10/03/deno-to-node/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://dbushell.com/2026/10/03/deno-to-node/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18935/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:02:24 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18935/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I think many organizations would benefit from an LLM policy that&amp;rsquo;s similar to what Rust is putting forward here. Proactive compulsory disclosure in particular is something that would prevent a lot of time being wasted.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think many organizations would benefit from an LLM policy that&rsquo;s similar to what Rust is putting forward here. Proactive compulsory disclosure in particular is something that would prevent a lot of time being wasted.</p>
<p><a href="https://blog.rust-lang.org/inside-rust/2026/08/05/rust-langrust-is-adopting-an-llm-policy/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://blog.rust-lang.org/inside-rust/2026/08/05/rust-langrust-is-adopting-an-llm-policy/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18934/</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2026 15:00:43 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18934/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I know for sure this oddly named function in the &lt;code&gt;re&lt;/code&gt; library has bitten me a bunch of times when writing Python and I&amp;rsquo;m glad to see that it&amp;rsquo;s being phased out. Just why did it take so long?&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I know for sure this oddly named function in the <code>re</code> library has bitten me a bunch of times when writing Python and I&rsquo;m glad to see that it&rsquo;s being phased out. Just why did it take so long?</p>
<p><a href="https://hugovk.dev/blog/2026/soft-deprecating-re.match/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://hugovk.dev/blog/2026/soft-deprecating-re.match/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18933/</link><pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2026 09:53:34 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18933/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Just like I also &lt;a href="https://alper.nl/posts/keeping-claude-in-check-with-jujutsu/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"&gt;wrote more than a year ago&lt;/a&gt;, there&amp;rsquo;s a lot to be gained from using jj as the version control harness for your LLM. It removes a lot of the cruft of git and simplifies concepts and flows.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just like I also <a href="https://alper.nl/posts/keeping-claude-in-check-with-jujutsu/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">wrote more than a year ago</a>, there&rsquo;s a lot to be gained from using jj as the version control harness for your LLM. It removes a lot of the cruft of git and simplifies concepts and flows.</p>
<p>The only downside is that git is so much more widespread that LLMs know how to use it almost by default, but I hope that may finally be changing.</p>
<p>Turns out this is a thought with enough currency to merit writing a book about it. Nice to see somebody jumping on that.</p>
<p><a href="https://juju-chu.com"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://juju-chu.com</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18932/</link><pubDate>Tue, 13 Oct 2026 09:52:58 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18932/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Dan Abramov&amp;rsquo;s account of how he used LLMs to do novel math is interesting and revealing. It is possible to deploy these tools to do new and original things, but right now it takes a lot of time, persistence and expertise.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dan Abramov&rsquo;s account of how he used LLMs to do novel math is interesting and revealing. It is possible to deploy these tools to do new and original things, but right now it takes a lot of time, persistence and expertise.</p>
<p><a href="https://overreacted.io/how-i-vibed-a-proof-of-conways-conjecture/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://overreacted.io/how-i-vibed-a-proof-of-conways-conjecture/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18931/</link><pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2026 18:31:22 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18931/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I joke that staying off X was Woke 1.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I joke that staying off X was Woke 1.</p>
<p>Gruber has a point here. I also enjoy Mastodon more than I do Bluesky and my feed does have a bunch of interesting things in it. But truly, there is zero “action” there.</p>
<p>The people who build it even pride themselves on it. When the design goal is to be dull, that&rsquo;s an easy one to hit.</p>
<p><a href="https://daringfireball.net/2026/10/x_once_again_marks_the_spot"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://daringfireball.net/2026/10/x_once_again_marks_the_spot</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18930/</link><pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2026 18:25:48 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18930/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I totally missed Foursquare being acquired. I think that&amp;rsquo;ll mean game over for Swarm and the platform sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I totally missed Foursquare being acquired. I think that&rsquo;ll mean game over for Swarm and the platform sooner rather than later.</p>
<p>Let&rsquo;s be glad there&rsquo;s a bunch of @proto based replacement services and it&rsquo;s not hard to generate data migration tools.</p>
<p><a href="https://app.dealroom.co/news/note/infillion-buys-foursquare-adding-location-data-to-its-ad-platform"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://app.dealroom.co/news/note/infillion-buys-foursquare-adding-location-data-to-its-ad-platform</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18929/</link><pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2026 18:25:16 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18929/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;LLMs will use any loophole they can to make their life easier. Not unlikely that they&amp;rsquo;ve done that with the Navier Stokes problem.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>LLMs will use any loophole they can to make their life easier. Not unlikely that they&rsquo;ve done that with the Navier Stokes problem.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/did-openai-solve-the-wrong-navier-stokes-problem/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/did-openai-solve-the-wrong-navier-stokes-problem/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18928/</link><pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2026 18:16:04 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18928/</guid><description>&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;the company that coined the term ‘Site Reliability Engineer’ and wrote the SRE book.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>the company that coined the term ‘Site Reliability Engineer’ and wrote the SRE book.</p>
</blockquote><p>That doesn&rsquo;t really mean that much. Many of those books record practices that may only have been true very briefly or narrowly (if even that). Also the SRE book is not very good if you&rsquo;re not Google.</p>
<blockquote><p>Firebase never bothered updating its status page.</p>
</blockquote><p>That incident management even at Google these days could be better than this, is naive. We have to accept that this is as good as it gets mostly because most people aren&rsquo;t going to move away anyway.</p>
<p><a href="https://newsletter.pragmaticengineer.com/p/the-pulse-firebases-global-outage-213"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://newsletter.pragmaticengineer.com/p/the-pulse-firebases-global-outage-213</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18927/</link><pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2026 18:12:39 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18927/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Turns out that “obesity of the mind” is an old term, but I guess we&amp;rsquo;re bringing it back.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Turns out that “obesity of the mind” is an old term, but I guess we&rsquo;re bringing it back.</p>
<p>Old reference: <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/media/2015/apr/12/matthew-crawford-distraction-is-a-kind-of-obesity-of-the-mind-the-world-beyond-your-head"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.theguardian.com/media/2015/apr/12/matthew-crawford-distraction-is-a-kind-of-obesity-of-the-mind-the-world-beyond-your-head</a></p>
<p>New reference from Teendrama: <a href="https://teendrama.substack.com/p/teendrama-25-no-phones-no-scrolling"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://teendrama.substack.com/p/teendrama-25-no-phones-no-scrolling</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18926/</link><pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2026 22:47:12 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18926/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Facebook is a massive scam farm these days and why should that be allowed?&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Facebook is a massive scam farm these days and why should that be allowed?</p>
<p><a href="https://thenextweb.com/news/meta-scam-ads-ruling-germany-frankfurt-court"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://thenextweb.com/news/meta-scam-ads-ruling-germany-frankfurt-court</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18925/</link><pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2026 09:53:40 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18925/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A strong argument written in German against the privatization of social media as a problem inflicted on us by unaccountable profit seeking corporations.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A strong argument written in German against the privatization of social media as a problem inflicted on us by unaccountable profit seeking corporations.</p>
<p>I&rsquo;m not sure whether this will do anything to course correct the idiocy that our politicians seem hell bent on pushing on us. It should not be children and parents who are regulated, but the corporation taking advantage of us.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.blaetter.de/ausgabe/2026/juni/die-tiktok-demokratie"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.blaetter.de/ausgabe/2026/juni/die-tiktok-demokratie</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18924/</link><pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2026 09:51:31 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18924/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;The German car industry has remained immensely profitable all the while driving itself off a cliff (!).&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The German car industry has remained immensely profitable all the while driving itself off a cliff (!).</p>
<p>The crisis is entirely self-inflicted and lots of people have taken the money and ran. There need to be political and criminal consequences for this before the country can move on.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.somo.nl/manufactured-crisis/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.somo.nl/manufactured-crisis/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18923/</link><pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2026 09:50:40 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18923/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;You may have seen that deleting lots of small files on your laptop can be a very intense and slow process. Deleting lots of things in a database can require so much extra work and bookkeeping that it can be detrimental to the health of the system.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You may have seen that deleting lots of small files on your laptop can be a very intense and slow process. Deleting lots of things in a database can require so much extra work and bookkeeping that it can be detrimental to the health of the system.</p>
<p><a href="https://planetscale.com/blog/the-only-scalable-delete"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://planetscale.com/blog/the-only-scalable-delete</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18922/</link><pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2026 09:47:15 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18922/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I don&amp;rsquo;t think Omarchy is going to make Linux better so much as that they identified that Linux on the desktop has reached a tipping point and now is the time to capitalize on it. That&amp;rsquo;s the DHH playbook and why would it be any different this time?&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don&rsquo;t think Omarchy is going to make Linux better so much as that they identified that Linux on the desktop has reached a tipping point and now is the time to capitalize on it. That&rsquo;s the DHH playbook and why would it be any different this time?</p>
<p>One thing I will give them is that the total lack of leadership and project management in open source software is at the same time a liability as it is its strength. That kind of duality creates these kind of opportunities for actors not willing to play by the unspoken rules.</p>
<p><a href="https://tante.cc/2026/09/11/power-grab/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://tante.cc/2026/09/11/power-grab/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18921/</link><pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2026 09:44:12 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18921/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I was forced to create a passkey recently and I wanted to store that key in 1Password where I store all my other credentials. How to do that properly was pretty non-obvious and a bad enough experience that it seems that it wasn&amp;rsquo;t tested or a priority for anybody implementing these systems.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was forced to create a passkey recently and I wanted to store that key in 1Password where I store all my other credentials. How to do that properly was pretty non-obvious and a bad enough experience that it seems that it wasn&rsquo;t tested or a priority for anybody implementing these systems.</p>
<p>Third party managers not being supported well seems to be known and one might assume also that it&rsquo;s softly intentional to create further lock in on the main platforms.</p>
<p><a href="https://hawksley.dev/blog/i-dont-like-passkeys"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://hawksley.dev/blog/i-dont-like-passkeys</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18920/</link><pubDate>Thu, 17 Sep 2026 00:00:21 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18920/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Tooze makes a coherent argument in this episode of Surplus why expropriation of the large landlords in Berlin makes economic sense. Morally it&amp;rsquo;s of course a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tooze makes a coherent argument in this episode of Surplus why expropriation of the large landlords in Berlin makes economic sense. Morally it&rsquo;s of course a no-brainer.</p>
<p>Very much worth listening to if you still have to make up your mind for the Berlin election.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.surplusmagazin.de/podcast/vergesellschaftung-okonomisch-berlin-deutschewohnenundcoenteignen-tomkrebs-adamtooze/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.surplusmagazin.de/podcast/vergesellschaftung-okonomisch-berlin-deutschewohnenundcoenteignen-tomkrebs-adamtooze/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18919/</link><pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2026 23:33:30 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18919/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;More and more people are finding that you can&amp;rsquo;t really let LLMs loose on any significant amount of code.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>More and more people are finding that you can&rsquo;t really let LLMs loose on any significant amount of code.</p>
<p>It&rsquo;s fine for simple things, but when things get complicated (or even just non-obvious) it&rsquo;ll grind and grind and continue trying stuff and producing code until it creates a huge christmas tree with thousands of lines that are entirely wrong</p>
<p>And those are the kind of solutions that juniors happily commit into production for you, saying: &ldquo;Look it works!&rdquo;</p>
<p><a href="https://lucumr.pocoo.org/2026/9/7/astra-why/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://lucumr.pocoo.org/2026/9/7/astra-why/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18918/</link><pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2026 23:28:30 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18918/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;This episode from the lovely city podcast by Inge Wannet is a perfect account of what it feels like to cycle through Amsterdam rush hour.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This episode from the lovely city podcast by Inge Wannet is a perfect account of what it feels like to cycle through Amsterdam rush hour.</p>
<p>For added effect, listen to it at 1.4x.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.ingewannet.nl/destad/episode/2aaebbc4/haast"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.ingewannet.nl/destad/episode/2aaebbc4/haast</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18917/</link><pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2026 19:27:18 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18917/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A rundown of the differences between Rust and Zig. I can&amp;rsquo;t say I&amp;rsquo;m very convinced.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A rundown of the differences between Rust and Zig. I can&rsquo;t say I&rsquo;m very convinced.</p>
<p><a href="https://besok.github.io/posts/what-zig-felt-like-coming-from-rust/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://besok.github.io/posts/what-zig-felt-like-coming-from-rust/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18916/</link><pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2026 19:26:23 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18916/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A very good explanation of what the real difference is between ‘simple’ and ‘complex’ in software engineering and what the consequences of this tradeoff are.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A very good explanation of what the real difference is between ‘simple’ and ‘complex’ in software engineering and what the consequences of this tradeoff are.</p>
<p><a href="https://jyn.dev/simple-is-not-the-same-as-small/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://jyn.dev/simple-is-not-the-same-as-small/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18915/</link><pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2026 19:25:38 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18915/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I think this may be a good resolution to the Typescript Result pattern issue. Who would have thought that &lt;code&gt;anyhow&lt;/code&gt; would come in handy after all. (Also I now understand what anyhow is supposed to be doing.)&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think this may be a good resolution to the Typescript Result pattern issue. Who would have thought that <code>anyhow</code> would come in handy after all. (Also I now understand what anyhow is supposed to be doing.)</p>
<p><a href="https://daviddalbusco.com/blog/tiny-utils-for-the-result-pattern"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://daviddalbusco.com/blog/tiny-utils-for-the-result-pattern</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18914/</link><pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2026 19:22:09 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18914/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;After the way OpenAI behaved here with this math proof, I don&amp;rsquo;t see how anybody would trust them with secret information. It feels like we haven&amp;rsquo;t seen the last of this issue yet.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After the way OpenAI behaved here with this math proof, I don&rsquo;t see how anybody would trust them with secret information. It feels like we haven&rsquo;t seen the last of this issue yet.</p>
<p><a href="https://cims.nyu.edu/~tristanb/statement.pdf"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://cims.nyu.edu/~tristanb/statement.pdf</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18913/</link><pubDate>Wed, 26 Aug 2026 09:41:10 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18913/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;This tallies with my intuition for why it&amp;rsquo;s often more profitable to leave commercial properties vacant. The operating costs to maintain an empty office building are really not that high.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This tallies with my intuition for why it&rsquo;s often more profitable to leave commercial properties vacant. The operating costs to maintain an empty office building are really not that high.</p>
<p>Two takeaways that are essential:</p>
<ul>
<li>Commercial real estate is a financial product much more than it is a building for humans to use and its financing is structured in ways that you can&rsquo;t understand if you take residential property as a reference.</li>
<li>Commercial leases are long term (in the Netherlands often 5+5 years) which means that if you settle for a lower rent than you had planned for, that then becomes locked in for half a decade or more.</li>
</ul>
<p>This knowledge is especially useful in Berlin right now since we have many commercial properties that were built in the past 5-10 years flooding the market, all sitting empty (I live next door to one) as Berlin and the entire German economy goes into a slump. The only thing the operators of these properties can do right now is to have faith that ‘the stimulus money is coming’.</p>
<p>This is also why it&rsquo;s hard to convert offices into housing. It&rsquo;s not so much about the architecture being unsuitable as it is about the financials not making sense anymore in such a scenario.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.freerange.city/p/why-do-commercial-spaces-sit-vacant"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.freerange.city/p/why-do-commercial-spaces-sit-vacant</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18912/</link><pubDate>Wed, 26 Aug 2026 09:40:13 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18912/</guid><description>&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;The SQLite team themselves suggest that SQLite is a better fopen(), and they meant it as a design goal, not a joke.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>The SQLite team themselves suggest that SQLite is a better fopen(), and they meant it as a design goal, not a joke.</p>
</blockquote><p>After using Postgres for everything, we can go one step further and use sqlite for everything.</p>
<p><a href="https://joecode.com/2026-08-19-sqlite3/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://joecode.com/2026-08-19-sqlite3/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.raphaelbauer.com/posts/postgresql-everything/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.raphaelbauer.com/posts/postgresql-everything/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18911/</link><pubDate>Wed, 26 Aug 2026 09:38:46 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18911/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A great idea to use a software tool that exfiltrates all your data without your knowledge or consent. Not at all surprising also that it would be Grok doing such a thing.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A great idea to use a software tool that exfiltrates all your data without your knowledge or consent. Not at all surprising also that it would be Grok doing such a thing.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.theverge.com/ai-artificial-intelligence/965600/spacexai-grok-build-repository-upload"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.theverge.com/ai-artificial-intelligence/965600/spacexai-grok-build-repository-upload</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Now</title><link>https://alper.nl/now/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 10:25:55 +0100</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/now/</guid><description>&lt;h2 class="relative group"&gt;Traveling
&lt;div id="traveling" class="anchor"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;span
class="absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100 select-none"&gt;
&lt;a class="text-primary-300 dark:text-neutral-700 !no-underline" href="#traveling" aria-label="Anchor"&gt;#&lt;/a&gt;
&lt;/span&gt;
&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Amsterdam in October&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Spain in November&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Japan in 2027?&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
&lt;h2 class="relative group"&gt;Doing
&lt;div id="doing" class="anchor"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;span
class="absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100 select-none"&gt;
&lt;a class="text-primary-300 dark:text-neutral-700 !no-underline" href="#doing" aria-label="Anchor"&gt;#&lt;/a&gt;
&lt;/span&gt;
&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.wanikani.com/level/29" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"&gt;Wanikani level 29&lt;/a&gt; and a bit of Duolingo&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.strava.com/athletes/3476127" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"&gt;Road cycling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Gym&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
&lt;h2 class="relative group"&gt;Reading
&lt;div id="reading" class="anchor"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;span
class="absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100 select-none"&gt;
&lt;a class="text-primary-300 dark:text-neutral-700 !no-underline" href="#reading" aria-label="Anchor"&gt;#&lt;/a&gt;
&lt;/span&gt;
&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;The Power Broker: Robert Moses and the Fall of New York&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;De vrijgemaakte Ortjes (The Wee Free Men)&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;The Mirror and the Light&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/15956224.Alper_u_un" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"&gt;Goodreads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<h2 class="relative group">Traveling
    <div id="traveling" class="anchor"></div>
    
    <span
        class="absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100 select-none">
        <a class="text-primary-300 dark:text-neutral-700 !no-underline" href="#traveling" aria-label="Anchor">#</a>
    </span>
    
</h2>
<ul>
<li>Amsterdam in October</li>
<li>Spain in November</li>
<li>Japan in 2027?</li>
</ul>

<h2 class="relative group">Doing
    <div id="doing" class="anchor"></div>
    
    <span
        class="absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100 select-none">
        <a class="text-primary-300 dark:text-neutral-700 !no-underline" href="#doing" aria-label="Anchor">#</a>
    </span>
    
</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.wanikani.com/level/29"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Wanikani level 29</a> and a bit of Duolingo</li>
<li><a href="https://www.strava.com/athletes/3476127"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Road cycling</a></li>
<li>Gym</li>
</ul>

<h2 class="relative group">Reading
    <div id="reading" class="anchor"></div>
    
    <span
        class="absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100 select-none">
        <a class="text-primary-300 dark:text-neutral-700 !no-underline" href="#reading" aria-label="Anchor">#</a>
    </span>
    
</h2>
<ul>
<li>The Power Broker: Robert Moses and the Fall of New York</li>
<li>De vrijgemaakte Ortjes (The Wee Free Men)</li>
<li>The Mirror and the Light</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/15956224.Alper_u_un"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Goodreads</a></p>

<h2 class="relative group">Watching
    <div id="watching" class="anchor"></div>
    
    <span
        class="absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100 select-none">
        <a class="text-primary-300 dark:text-neutral-700 !no-underline" href="#watching" aria-label="Anchor">#</a>
    </span>
    
</h2>
<ul>
<li>The Bear S5</li>
<li>Critical Role: Campaign 4</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://trakt.tv/users/alpercugun"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Trakt</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18910/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:55:51 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18910/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Shoehorning the open source forge into the same web application where corporate software engineering takes place was a historic mistake. It would be good to cut these two very different things loose from each other and explore what makes sense for each use case.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Shoehorning the open source forge into the same web application where corporate software engineering takes place was a historic mistake. It would be good to cut these two very different things loose from each other and explore what makes sense for each use case.</p>
<p>Open source is facing lots of challenges around trust, effort and financing fueled in large part by the LLM explosion in code. At the same time corporate software engineering is becoming faster and more industrial (also thanks to LLMs) with massive requirements in logic, gating and repository sizes.</p>
<p><a href="https://nesbitt.io/2026/05/02/a-github-for-maintainers.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://nesbitt.io/2026/05/02/a-github-for-maintainers.html</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18909/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:51:45 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18909/</guid><description>&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;These look intimidating the first time you see them, but they are boilerplate.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>These look intimidating the first time you see them, but they are boilerplate.</p>
</blockquote><p>And that&rsquo;s exactly the problem with Rust. You can know precisely what you want to do but you&rsquo;ll spend lots of time making this stuff line up and dealing with obtuse type checking complaints.</p>
<p>It really ruins what is an otherwise cool language.</p>
<blockquote><p>Under the hood, the async block is the compiler’s desugaring of an anonymous state machine that implements Future, and Box::pin boxes-and-pins that anonymous future so its concrete type disappears behind the dyn in type Future = Pin&lt;Box&lt;dyn Future&lt;…&raquo;&gt;.</p>
</blockquote><p>I&rsquo;ve read stuff like this dozens of times and it does make sense at some point, but it&rsquo;s still aggravating. This is a good article and it does a decent job of explaining it all, but it&rsquo;s just &ldquo;too much&rdquo;.</p>
<p>Most of this stuff by now is so well documented that it&rsquo;s relatively easy to have the LLM do this kind of work for you. And once everything is put together, it will run well and quickly.</p>
<p><a href="https://loige.co/writing-middlewares-for-rust-lambda-functions/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://loige.co/writing-middlewares-for-rust-lambda-functions/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18907/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:41:00 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18907/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I can&amp;rsquo;t agree more with this. Programming shouldn&amp;rsquo;t be that complicated. Type systems should not become too complicated or they get in the way.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I can&rsquo;t agree more with this. Programming shouldn&rsquo;t be that complicated. Type systems should not become too complicated or they get in the way.</p>
<p><a href="https://blainsmith.com/articles/just-fucking-use-go/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://blainsmith.com/articles/just-fucking-use-go/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18906/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:38:17 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18906/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A secure LLM system cannot be given write access to any important endpoints. That&amp;rsquo;s the basic first principle of AI security at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A secure LLM system cannot be given write access to any important endpoints. That&rsquo;s the basic first principle of AI security at the moment.</p>
<p>I have a relatively high value Instagram username that I&rsquo;m holding onto for dear life against a barrage of attackers trying to get Meta to give it to them. For Meta this is clearly not a priority and I could be losing this part of my online presence at any moment.</p>
<p><a href="https://thecybersecguru.com/news/instagram-meta-ai-vulnerability-account-recovery-exploit/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://thecybersecguru.com/news/instagram-meta-ai-vulnerability-account-recovery-exploit/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18905/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:35:06 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18905/</guid><description>&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;The candidates who stand out are the ones who understood the problem before they started designing the solution.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>The candidates who stand out are the ones who understood the problem before they started designing the solution.</p>
</blockquote><blockquote><p>The ability to incorporate new information fluidly, showing both conviction and flexibility, is one of the highest-signal moments in the entire loop.</p>
</blockquote><p>I don&rsquo;t see that much new here. Do you mean they weren&rsquo;t screening for these things before?</p>
<p><a href="https://open.substack.com/pub/theskip/p/what-pm-hiring-managers-actually"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://open.substack.com/pub/theskip/p/what-pm-hiring-managers-actually</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18904/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:33:21 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18904/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;Why would anybody pay attention to what a German court says about something digital? The country has no idea and is behind by decades. Was the ruling delivered by fax machine?&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Why would anybody pay attention to what a German court says about something digital? The country has no idea and is behind by decades. Was the ruling delivered by fax machine?</p>
<p><a href="https://the-decoder.com/landmark-german-ruling-declares-googles-ai-overviews-are-googles-own-words-and-makes-it-liable-for-false-answers/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://the-decoder.com/landmark-german-ruling-declares-googles-ai-overviews-are-googles-own-words-and-makes-it-liable-for-false-answers/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18903/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:31:27 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18903/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;A wild story of debugging an obscure race condition in sqlite. Even the most reliable systems when pushed to their limits will run into these kind of weird edge cases.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A wild story of debugging an obscure race condition in sqlite. Even the most reliable systems when pushed to their limits will run into these kind of weird edge cases.</p>
<p><a href="https://tailscale.com/blog/sqlite-wal-reset-bug"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://tailscale.com/blog/sqlite-wal-reset-bug</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18902/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:28:23 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18902/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I&amp;rsquo;ve been waiting for the rewrite to conclude and to be able to use Roc for a long time now. Gleam scratches most of the itches that Roc does but for some reason I want to use Roc more.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&rsquo;ve been waiting for the rewrite to conclude and to be able to use Roc for a long time now. Gleam scratches most of the itches that Roc does but for some reason I want to use Roc more.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7qEOtkkDb8"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7qEOtkkDb8</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18901/</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 08:27:17 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18901/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;As true as it is that monorepos require specific tooling to make them work, the same is true for any polyrepo setup as well. The main tradeoff is the price you pay when you don&amp;rsquo;t have this tooling in place yet.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As true as it is that monorepos require specific tooling to make them work, the same is true for any polyrepo setup as well. The main tradeoff is the price you pay when you don&rsquo;t have this tooling in place yet.</p>
<p>But I agree: Always go for a monorepo mostly because it makes most things go faster.</p>
<p><a href="https://kore-nordmann.de/blog/always_go_with_a_monorepo.html"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://kore-nordmann.de/blog/always_go_with_a_monorepo.html</a></p>
]]></content:encoded></item><item><title/><link>https://alper.nl/posts/18900/</link><pubDate>Fri, 21 Aug 2026 22:39:39 +0200</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">https://alper.nl/posts/18900/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;This is a really clean update for Mastodon with a well communicated set of changes. One of the things that I think caused a lot of grief is mixing up messages with normal posts so I&amp;rsquo;m glad they now fixed that.&lt;/p&gt;</description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a really clean update for Mastodon with a well communicated set of changes. One of the things that I think caused a lot of grief is mixing up messages with normal posts so I&rsquo;m glad they now fixed that.</p>
<p><a href="https://blog.joinmastodon.org/2026/08/5.0-laying-the-foundation/"  target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://blog.joinmastodon.org/2026/08/5.0-laying-the-foundation/</a></p>
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