Well before 7am I grab a quick breakfast at the local FamilyMart and supplies for the day ahead. I’m glad that these things are open 24 hours, but how is this possible? Maybe it’s better to not ask any questions1. No coffee to be found anywhere at this time, but the hotel espresso machine does a decent enough job.
I eat a pudding and go over the plan. After yesterday, today will be a lot more restrained. I’ll start with the first pass just outside of Odai, Misesaka though even that is a bit of a trek before I’m at the trailhead.
No rain today for which I’m very grateful. That means there are somewhat more people out and about than yesterday but still not a huge amount. Again not that many opportunities to wish anybody an ohayo.
To my delight and reassurance at the trailhead there is a box where you can borrow a bear bell and grab a walking stick. You then leave it when you get to the other side where there’s a similar arrangement. This is very considerate and something that I don’t think is possible in Germany.
Japan is in a bear frenzy at the moment and there’s hardly anything else on the news or on anybody’s lips. I can report that the bear bell works, because I didn’t see one. Or it could have something to do with how on Kumamap this part of Japan has very few bear sightings.
Walking the pass is much nicer without rain. It’s beautiful and just a bit of an effort. On the other side, Takihara shrine awaits. This is just before 10am and the monks are all up and about. They’re moving stuff around for some kind of event. At one of the buildings a group of monks are busy in the inner sanctuary.
Watching these men in full regalia doing their spiritual business is impressive even though I don’t know—nor probably will ever know—what they are doing. They wear beautiful hats with feathers which are a kanmuri with its ei.
As captivating as this scene is, that doesn’t change the fact that I have to catch the 10:25 at Takihara station. If I don’t, I’ll be stuck here for three hours.
Double timing through the town is not fun with legs as sore as mine, but I get there with time to spare. The train itself is manned by a single person acting as conductor, driver and ticket seller. I see him point at something when the train stops and don’t get it at first. Then I realize that he’s practicing pointing-and-calling which is a common practice in Japan.
I’d considered taking the train to O-Uchiyama but given how sore my legs are, any bit of walking that is unnecessary should be discarded. I get off at Umegadani and make my way to the trailhead for the Nisaka pass.
At Nisaka there’s a similar arrangement with the bells and now we also add another dangerous animal to our repertoire: the viper.
This is also where the stunning coastal views start. On the way down there’s the occasional choice between the Meiji and Edo routes, one meandering and the other straight and vertical.
I find myself fighting against the sun on the walk out in what is end of November. Next resupply will have to include sunscreen.
With lunchtime approaching I’m eager to make it into town where I’ve scoped out some restaurants. Being in civilization at a time when gastronomy is open is not self-evident on this walk.
I make my way around a small lake where I find Kappa Club, a mix between a beach club and a kissaten. Locals make their way to the lake here to relax and have some lunch. I treat myself to a well-deserved shrimp plate, nama (draft beer) and coffee while I watch several black kites circle over the water. This arrangement is so lovely I stay there for more than an hour taking in the view and the atmosphere.
A bit further along there’s a very promising coffee truck cafe kiihot which sadly isn’t open today.
I head into town to find my accommodation but not before stopping at the Cocokarafine to get trail care supplies. A Japanese big-box drugstore is something you have to see to believe. The variety of products and the sensory overload they provide are more of a marvel than many of the sights along the Kumano Kodo.
I walk to my guest house in the old town when the owner of restaurant Kappa runs into me on the street and takes me on a tour of a repurposed sento that’s now a fishery museum. The objects in the museum are an interesting jumble but judging from the pictures the place comes alive during the events they host.
I’m staying at Toyohisa tonight where I have an entire floor to myself. The host insists on making me dinner in a way that I feel I can’t refuse. She makes shrimp along with fried fish and sashimi cut from fresh local fish. I eat it while she sits in the kitchen eating hers and having a drink. We talk about Kyoto jazz cafes and bears and solar panels. My legs are happy they don’t have to walk anywhere anymore.
Except for these highly sketchy stairs I have to go down if I want to use the restroom.
The stats for the day say 26,86km and some 34k steps (strava1, strava2).
As I write this I find the video that Craig Mod posted about one of his days along the route. Part of it covers what I walked today and it’s a picture perfect match with how my day went: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QL5GB2vdS8
This has been a very full day with so many different experiences and small victories that it’s hard to take in. I can’t believe that this is only day two. More tomorrow.
